Saturday, January 28, 2012

The Combat Infantryman's Badge

Newly arrived in country, Captain Ed Skillman is on his first venture into the Mekong Delta countryside:

“With the canal network so interconnected across the province, Ramsey, what’s the big deal over one bridge out?”

    Ramsey leaned forward from the backseat. “The bridge connects the fishing village by road with the district town. The frustration is that the people in Cau Ngang have a hard time getting fish to the inland marketplace. When the bridge is out, the fishermen have to work their way to market by canal, which is a hassle and wastes a lot of time. Plus it demonstrates the government’s inability to provide security for the people.”  Ramsey turned to the driver. “We’re going to Cau Ngang, soldier. Turn off at the next left… There by the road markers.”

    Ramsey never tried to learn the Vietnamese names. He just called every one of them “soldier.” With his twinkling blue eyes and that boyish smile, no one ever seemed to mind that their name was not used. It did not occur to them that “soldier” was anything but a term of friendship. They might have been surprised to learn that Captain Hartmann had not a clue as to any of their names.

    The driver slowed for the turn. The side road was dirt, but it was well engineered. The quality of road nets in Vietnam was one of the supporting factors in the decision by U.S. to take its stand in this part of Indochina. Between Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, Vietnam was believed to have the best road network.

  Cau Ngang was about two kilometers down the road running between rice paddies. The paddies were lightly flooded. It was just enough mud to make it easy for the farmers to plant. And they formed the quintessential scene of the Orient: the rice farmer in conical hat and black pajamas rolled up above his knees, ankle deep in muddy water, placing rice plants in rows beside the paddy dike.

    The jeep pulled through the district town to the far side of the marketplace and stopped at the small villa with the Vietnamese flag on a pole in front. Ramsey jumped out from the backseat and motioned for me to follow.

    “You always want to check through the local chief before you go into his area—an international courtesy—but you’d be surprised at how many people don't seem to honor that.”

    A small, weathered Vietnamese in uniform stepped out onto the porch of the villa. He smiled at Ramsey. “Chau, Daui.” Hello, Captain.
Chau, Chief. Got someone here I want you to meet. This is our new civil guard advisor, Captain Skillman.”

    After brief introductions Ramsey began asking questions about the incident that occurred the night before last. He learned that the three-man outpost had in fact, been overrun by the VC. Seemed the defenders fled before being captured. The bridge was damaged, but the chief had been able to get it temporarily repaired the next day.

    “Is OK today, but need more long time repair pretty soon.”

    Ramsey asked, “Are the defenders back on site?”

    The chief nodded. “Yes.”

    “Was any artillery used?”   

    “No. Post have no radio.”

    Ramsey frowned but said nothing. He turned to me. “Let’s go see what it looks like. You want to come with us, Chief?”

    The chief smiled nervously, “I there all day yesterday. I catch up here.”

    Ramsey hopped into the back of the jeep as I slid into the right front. “Head out on the river road, soldier.”

    As the jeep broke out of the tree line at the edge of the district town, we could see the next village about five hundred meters in the distance.
Ramsey leaned forward from the backseat. “Not using the artillery is a problem. Something you can take a look at in your job. Your counterpart should be able to get a radio net down here. Training the troops to use artillery is not that hard, assuming they have reasonable intelligence.”

    The driver slowed down as we entered the next settlement of thatched houses. A group of children stopped their play as the jeep passed by. They shouted and waved from behind a fenced-in dirt yard that had not one blade of green anything in it. The driver hustled on through town and back into the countryside. The next hamlet looked to be another half kilometer down the road.

    Just as the jeep approached the hamlet, the road curved to the right along the edge of the tree line and, after thirty meters or so, curved back to the left and into the town. The settlement consisted of half a dozen thatched houses and one small stucco building that was some sort of community house. No need to stop. There were no children around and the adults all seemed to be out in the fields. About fifty yards out of the village, however, the driver did stop—suddenly.
A light tree branch stretched out across the road. Zim just stared.

    “OK. Hold the phone here,” said Ramsey.

    At that moment I heard a crisp staccato sound. In one fluid movement Ramsey went over the side of the jeep into the ditch. Soldier Zim dropped out of his seat and down beside the jeep. I heard a second and third CRACK and a couple of THUMP sounds, and the Fort Benning rifle range flashed into mind. I watched the dust kick up in little puffs, and it dawned on me: someone was … holy shit … they’re firing at me.

    How could that be? I’m a nice guy. I’m here to help. More dust spouts. A stop action moment …
If I could have just jumped up three feet, everything would have all gone under me …

    Ramsey's shout broke the spell. “Get your ass down, Skillman.” I hit the dirt and rolled into the ditch next to Ramsey.
 
    My mind was out of body. Here I was … Knight errant to the Court of Camelot, on assignment for a just and noble cause, and those sumbitches were shooting at me—and what’s more—they made me muddy up my fricken fatigues.


Sunday, January 15, 2012

Vietnamese Theory of Chance


Vietnamese Theory of Chance 

A cucumber green Overland truck appeared in front of the small 19th century French villa which was the quarters of the District Chief and his three man American adviser team. A white square was painted on the top of the truck. A similar white square was painted over the back doors. In the middle of each white patch was a red cross—the universal sign of humanitarian purposes. The interior of the Overland was not equipped as an ambulance, but had seats and a cargo bed as standard equipment--so much for humanitarian purposes.

     It was 1964 in the Mekong Delta of South Vietnam, and the struggle to prevent another nation from falling under communist governance was steadily escalating. By 1000 hours on this July morning a beat-up old truck about the size of a pickup came to a halt in front of the compound. It was fully equipped with running boards and a pair of headlamps that stuck out like chrome eyeballs. About a dozen soldiers stood jammed in the bed with clinging overflow standing on the running boards and draped over the front fenders.

Day-ui Tranh came out of the com shack and joined me, Captain Ed Skillman, and Captain KC Flint, standing at the front gate. He had on a soft-billed olive green cap and was carrying a pistol in his side holster.

The Chief opened the door for us to enter “We ride in Overland.”
“Isn’t it against the Geneva Convention to use a Red Cross vehicle for tactical operations?” asked KC.
“Not tactical operation. We visit Ap Lin village.” The Day-ui’s eyes nearly disappeared in his toothy grin. As Vietnamese went, he was tall at five-three. He was a captain in the Vietnamese army and currently the chief of Vung Liem District.
“Right,” acknowledged KC, “and that squad of troops just happens to be going to the same village”. 
The Day-ui ignored him and motioned to the driver. The Overland headed out of town along the dirt road past the school and the pagoda. At the intersection with the hard top road we turned right and headed up Route 8 between rice paddies looking like square lakes bound by green cord.

Twenty minutes later we arrive at the village of Ap Lin. The Overland pulled off to the side in front of a high-arched concrete bridge. The driver cut the engine, and the Chief jumped out. “We take a walk now.”

We headed down a dirt road. The truck, aka troop carrier, had turned left into a paved area and parked. 

  Nguyen Tranh, Captain in the Army of Vietnam, and District Chief of Vung Liem, seemed to know everyone, or at least he waved and smiled to each person he passed along the way. To some he even reached out to shake hands. We proceeded along the edge of the canal out of the built-up area toward the southwest. Thatched houses lined both sides of the road. From time to time the Day-ui, in conversation, would point to one of us Americans, and either I or KC or both would smile and greet the individual in Vietnamese: Chau, Ong; Hello, sir … or Chau, Ba; Hello, madam … or, on occasion, Chau, Co; Hello, mademoiselle.

Not quite a kilometer down the road a second canal entered the main canal from the southeast. This canal was obviously a feeder from the interior of the village. It was just wide enough for two sampans to pass. Thatched houses sat widely spaced on both sides of the canal. Trails, about the width of an oxcart, ran between the front of the homes and the water. From a thousand feet in the air only the straight green line of jungle foliage would have been visible.
Some troops circled out to the front of our party. Our command group turned down the trail. The Day-ui chatted with the citizenry along the way, introducing us as he went. All the villagers wore black pajamas. The only way to tell a man from a woman was that the woman generally had her hair tied in a bun in the back. I discovered that if I greeted every woman with “Chau, Co,” (hello mademoiselle) regardless of age, I was an instant hit.  KC, with his puppy-dog eyes, picked up on it. What would be a social blunder between Vietnamese was, from an American; flattering, funny, and forgivable. KC was a quick study.

For the next hour the three of us politicked our way to a four-way junction with a northeast canal. The density of thatched houses increased around the canal junction. As we drifted into a turn to the northeast, Day-ui Tranh spied an old woman sitting on her heels at the doorway to her thatched home. At his hello she gave him a toothless smile accented by red betel nut stains down her chin. She answered his greeting and held something out to him. As he walked over to her, he reached into his pocket and pulled out his billfold. Whatever she was selling, he bought ten piasters worth. She cackled, and they exchanged quips.

KC held out his hand. “What did you buy, Day-ui?”.

“Raffle tickets.” He passed them to the tall man.

“No joke? In the middle of water world you find raffle tickets?”

“You can’t buy, Captain Flint. I buy all she have.” He grinned—many teeth.


KC and I studied the tickets, while Day-ui talked to several other villagers. The book was a 1½-inch by 5-inch collection of twenty coupons. The paper looked and felt like course toilet paper. And the print bled so badly that one could hardly tell the difference between a 3 and an 8. The sequenced numbers were ten digits long.

I was astonished. “Holy cow, Day-ui, do you know the probability of you winning anything from this? It’s like one in fifty million—that is, of course, if this is a real raffle and these aren’t counterfeit”.

Day-ui Tranh took the tickets back and studied them. He looked back at the old lady who sold them to him and smiled. “No, Captain Skeelman … No, the probability of me winning something is fifty-fifty.” He looked at us blankly.

“You don’t believe that, do you?” said KC.

“Oh, yes, Captain Flint. The probability is fifty-fifty.” He glanced again at the old lady and looked straight faced around at the little gathering of villagers. “Fifty-fifty.” He nodded his head forward, assertively… “Either I win … or I lose.”

Before either of us could respond, he turned and spoke to the folks in Vietnamese explaining the conversation with the Americans. When he reached the punch line he faced us as he delivered it. The villagers erupted into laughter. It was more natural joy than I had seen since I arrived in country. 

We didn’t need an interpreter to catch the Day-ui’s sense of humor. Laughter needs no translation.

KC gave me an aside. “This guy is one hell of a politician. I’m taking notes in case I ever get the bug.”

The command group moved on to the northeast and eventually came out on the hardtop road, along which the vehicles were parked. I became aware that the trail security was growing in number and realized that the troops were closing in behind as the party approached the pickup point. The Day-ui may have billed this as a visit, but it was an operation nonetheless. The question was how much of this was precautionary as opposed to necessary.

Probably fifty-fifty.